Onsight!

Simon Carter has been responsible for so many of us taking up the life of climbing.

Climbers, you remember the first time you saw a Simon Carter photo. We all had the same experience. The urgent, desperate need to buy some gear and get out there. It was a glimpse of what was possible.



So when he put on a show in Brisbane in July everyone and their belayerturned up. I think the opportunity to get closer to the source of our inspiration was irresistible.







That, and Monique Forestier, who is currently smashing every hard route in this corner of the State.






Monique supported the team on the night with a beautifulRed Phoenix Emporium bespoke necklacefeaturing Tibetan turquoise.






Over 150 people were entranced by the best climbing shots from around the world.






In the collageyou'll see Andrew Lightfoot, Rob Saunders, Duncan Steel, Brad Babel, Simon Carter, Bochere Rand, Tracey, Henk, Sam and Lee Cujes, Suzy G, and more




































But it's not all about the climbing. We blew the morning off fooling around at the beach with Cocoin the glorious winter sun.I lacked the basic timing skills to keep dry while getting water in the bucket.

I love the newBronsonpant. ThanksPrana and Expedition Equipment. If I had one tiny criticism it would be that the cuffs get a little heavy when they are full of sand and sea water. Not usually an issue at the crag.


















Photo sequence: Simon Carter


Monique sent the always awesome Lee Cujes route, Gasoline Rainbow 28, without too much mucking around. I didn't have the chops for it this time. That route is way too much fun. So many funky moves.







Photo: Phil Box
Sterling Rope climber Monique Forestier gets some Velocity 9.8 between her teeth.











Photo: Phil Box









photo: Phil Box




A quick celebration back at the belay.



Photo: Selfie



And there goes the Coolum Classic, Screaming Insanity.






Thanks Simon and Monique for bringing so much fun and talent to the local crags.




P.S. Monique, moments ago, (10/8/) sent Whistling Kite 32 at Frog Buttress, making the first female ascent.

Exit Exploration ..

Adam and I took a trip to Exit 38 to explore extending/expanding routes on the Easy Street Slab. The forecast was to be in the 60°s and mostly sunny, but when we arrived in the parking area, there was a light mist falling. We opted to at least go for a hike presuming if the weather got worse, we wouldn't be climbing.

The weather didn't get worse, and after the twenty minute hike we were looking at the wet slab.


Adam said he would lead up the least wet route which was ES1, or third from the right. We geared up. Transitioning from muddy ground to rock was a bit sketchy, but he made the lead and then traversed to the anchor for ES2 before bringing me up. Fortunately the slabs are fairly easy, so the water did not affect us too adversely.

At the belay it was perhaps raining a bit harder now, but still not a full soaking. We couldn't really see anything that we wanted to look at, so I led out on the next pitch to the upper chains. There were a few wet bits that I did not feel comfortable on and I even placed a cam on the upper section to protect a wet move to get to a bolt. I got to the top chains and brought Adam up.

We were cold and wet, but now was the exploration time. I had Adam belay me out right just to check out the terrain. I had no intention of doing a lead in the rain. The terrain above looked dirty and not worthy of bolting. The terrain further to the right (where I did not venture looked a bit better.)


I came back to the anchors and belayed Adam up a bit. We both agreed that the terrain immediately above us did not look promising, but there was a knob above that looked fun. We were cold and starting to get wet, so we set about rappelling.

On the rappel I checked out the right side where there was a decent looking corner.


There was a set of anchor bolts above the corner that may have been used to develop the crag. We considered the possibility of extending ES3 with a short second pitch to those bolts. But there wasn't as much there as we wanted to be or anticipated. It was an interesting outing at least.

Leaving

Breathtaking White Peonies

Temple Square Gardens – Tuesday, June 7th

Happy Tears? Bracing for Winter...

At first glance, this might look like a "sad panda", but it's really not. It's just that today was 35° F and windy out. Riding to my destination I must have been a site, because tears were streaming down my face, then freezing in disgusting patches all over my cheeks. Mmmm!

So yes - Now I understand what cyclists mean when they discuss goggles for winter riding. I don't do well with goggles, because they mess with my spatial perception. But (some) sunglasses I can deal with, so I think I will wear them in the winter just as I wore them as "bug shields" last spring.

One thing I truly love about the winter is the beautiful light. Velouria thinks it flatters her colouring and gives her a sense of mystery. She also thinks that she will look quite nice once the snow arrives. What a vain bicycle!

Dramatic self-and-bike shadow. That lumpy stuff on my face is the tears - next time the sunglasses are coming for sure.

Overall, I am still trying to figure out how to be consistently comfortable cycling during the cold season. While I continue to cycle almost every day, I have to be honest: It does not feel as great as it did in the warmer months and I do not get the urge to go on rides (as opposed to using the bike solely for transportation) when it is below 40° F. Maybe I just need to allow myself to get used to it gradually? Also, I must admit that I am getting slightly terrified at the prospect of riding in the snow. On the one day it seriously snowed here so far, I was sick and didn't ride anywhere, but more snow is coming soon and I am going to have to face it. The posts on other blogs make it seem like "wiping out" on ice is not just a possibility, but an inevitability, and that doesn't sit well with me. I can't imagine not cycling during the winter, but I need to think of a plan and to brace myself.

Hairpins

Only when reviewing the route months later did I realise that I must have climbed for 7 miles to the high point of Cushendall Road. Effortful as this must have beenon a small wheel folding bike, itdid not register as such in my memory. What I do remember: Ascending - almost like floating - through an expanse of short, scraggly pine trees, past a surreal lake with steam rising off it. After that, there were farmlands and more farmlands, with their scatterings of placidly grazing sheep. Before long, I was at the top, and now the foggy glens edged by the sea spread out in front of me. Looking down, it was hard to believe that soon I would be at sea level.




I was not, at that point, used to descents longer than a couple of miles. This one was around 6. It began slow, but the grade steepened as it continued. As I gained momentum, the surrounding grasses and the sea began to blur together with the fog, into one green foamy mess. I felt intermittently dizzy and sleepy. In the distance I glimpses another forest and welcomed the variation in landscape.




When I saw the sharp curve in the road ahead, it was a jolt to my system, even though I had seen the map and knew to expect it. From my vantage point, the hairpin turn looked like a giant version of an actual hairpin. Somehow I'd thought the distinct shape only emerged in aerial pictures, and could not be glimpsed as such in real life from a bike. But there it was in front of me, a hairpin sure as day. There was the flash of recognition of what was about to happen, and then it happened. I reduced speed, then reduced it again, and leaned, and still felt the violent yank of whatever force did not want me to make the turn. But I made it: Braking clumsily, drenched in sweat and on the verge of skidding, I made it. For the rest of the descent I was wide awake.




Another time, back in Boston, I joined a friend on an unfamiliar route through some local hills. Having finished a climb we were about to descend a high traffic road, and she warned me not to pick up too much speed. The wind carried her voice away, but I could make out "Sharp turn! ...end up opposite traffic lane!" Gingerly I cycled around the bend, which I discovered to be another hairpin. Again it stunned me that even with the cars speeding past, even with the row of strip malls in the distance, even with all my energy focused on making the turn while keeping my line of travel, I could make out the shape of the mighty, beautiful hairpin.




So that makes two so far, which is also the number of actual pins I usually wear in my hair. That connection bears no significance what so ever, but it pops into my mind when I use the pins - just one of those silly associations.




Some years ago, a Tyrolean friend told me - in great, descriptive detail - about the Stelvio Pass, with its 48 hairpin turns. A vintage Austrian picture book was produced, dramatic hand gestures were involved. When she said her uncle liked to ride his bike there, I thought she was joking. How could such a thing be possible, on a bike? I felt lightheaded just looking at photos of the bends, scattered through the mountain like pins in some mad woman's hair.

Mountain fashion?

I admit to having at one time or another wanting to beone of the "Guys". Living in a mountain town or just hanging with your climbing buddies some times you wantto look the part. At some point most everyone does.



Dachstein sweaters or Francital jackets come to mind from my past. But a good puffy down sweater seems to be the status symbol these days. Fashion? It comes and it goes only to return....like a nice mullet :)



So you have to imagine when I meet one of our NW gear reps what my thought is about the "climbing" clothing he is describing to me. His side of the conversation was something like this. " Merino wool sweater with a Primaloft 1 body, nice stand up collar and thumb holes on the sleeves.Super, technical piece. Beautifully tailored, athletic fit. You can just image, someone really cool, getting out of their fancy Porsche in this one!"



I'd heard of, but knew zip about this particular company that Kurt represented. In for a penny, in for a pound I thought as I had already spent most of my day meeting with Kurt and discussing another company he represented in the US, Boreal.



So when Kurt described, "someone really cool" I already had someone in mind :)





"cool guy" winning the Bogus Hill climb in his Porsche.





But come on...throwing a light weight, high powered Porsche aroundis fun but nothing compares tosinker sticks on really steep neve. Even tossing a2200#, 300hp Porsche around aint that much fun!.







So while I cangrudgingly settle into old age driving a Porsche...doing it right in the USA means you either do it on a track or risk going to jail. I find neither appealing even while wearing stylishclothing.



As one might imagine Kurt was now going to have his hands full if he was going to impress me with a "highly technical sweater". But I do get the lingo. Let me back up just a bit. I am now down to the last couple of weeks before leaving on atrip. Things are hectic and I am tight on cash. The last thing I need right now is to be buying gear I don't need for this particular trip. Even the time away from my work benchis more expensive that usual. So looking at a new product line I know virtually nothing about isn't high on my priority list.



Once through the doors of the Sherpa Adventure Gear headquarters in Renton, WA,Kurt and I quickly get down to business. The first item he shows me isthe "stylistic and highly technical sweater". It is called the "Mantra sweater". Damn it! I want one. Even a black one. Although flaming hot RED would have been a better color. Or really bright blue. I can't decide if it was the ever so subtle "Porsche" sales pitch or that I really like the sweater. Likely a little of both. Do they some how know I designed and built/rebuilt my own Porsche? Am I overly paranoid?(yes...they say in unison) I REALLY don't want to spend any cash today. Worse yet he shows me the women's model. Screw the Porsche fashion connection. This is the version I want for myself. The purple is HOT! I should have painted my car THAT color. Same set up as men's Mantra but with a hood. My lovely wife is no ice climber but she wears a hoody or two almost everywhere when she isn't working in a suit. I know I have to buy this one for her. I'll likely not get another chance at wholesale pricing. Damn it! Like a fool, I blurt out..."Can I buy this for my wife?" "Of course...." "This guy is a total tool", I am sure Kurt is thinking.



We go through the majority of the SAG line, muchof itdesignedfor alpine climbing. A couple of things I have not seen else where I decide I'll haveto buy as well. Thankfully Kurt and SAG decide I might be worth *giving* a couple of samples for testing, including my very own Mantra, in "cool guy" black. I get to avoid the perils of an"athletic fit" that way :) But out thedoor, I am still a few hundred down on cash. I am just too damn easy!No control..zip...de nada....Damn it!



I know what I want in my own climbing gear. The hood or even just that huge stand up collar pattern...I want. Besides her favorite purple, here is what I could see of Tracy's Mantra hoody.











I've already used my Mantra version over a Patagonia Sun hoody and under a EB down hoodyon ice, depending on the conditions. The use of Merino wool in the sleeves and the body insulation, in vest form, of Primaloft 1 is brilliant. As I expected, it should beone of my main layers climbing ice in the up coming trip. I admit I did wear it to dinner yesterday.And Tracygracefully commented, "You look so handsome".Damn it! The problemnow is I'll need another one to wear while hangingout in the local Chamonix bistros and not smell like a goat.



And maybe a third one to keep clean and nice for the occasional dinner andthe Porcshe track days when the Nomex isn't required......damn it! ;-)

Ya, lucky for me, I now know the Sherpa Rep....Damn it!

Up the Mountain

It was a beautiful, winding drive up the mountain to the Ridge that even included a tunnel. (Jan's head in the mirror.) There were wonderful vistas off in the distance each time we went around another bend in the road, that we would stop and look at. There were trees everywhere, sometimes obscuring the views. We even saw a mama deer and her fawn. The fawn is in this shot with a moutain behind it.

Cozumel Cruise~The Ship

Today we headed out for our second cruise. This one was a Carnival cruise and was leaving from Tampa. We have an extra special bonus that some of our pickleball friends are taking the same cruise! Rich and Dee and Dean and Margie are the ones going. Rich and Dee's daughter is getting married which makes it even all the more special.





We spent the first little bit exploring the ship which was just as fun as the last time. We came upon the reception for Rich and Dee's daughter and got to see some of the toasts that were taking place. Their daughter is stunning so she made the wedding absolutely beautiful!



We found an outside deck by the food areas, and decided we would try to spend as much time as possible eating out there.





Nathan and I decided since we are now officially kid free, that we would truly spend time enjoying the kid free zone otherwise known as the Serenity Deck.



After heading out to sea, we spent the rest of this day and into the night with lots of food and watching the entertainment they provided. It was a great day!

Brooks Colt: New vs Vintage

I have a new-releaseBrooks "Colt" saddle on loan from Harris Cyclery (for comparison with the Gilles Berthoud) and have just received a vintage "Colt"from a reader to try out as well. The weather we've been having has not allowed me to ride either of them just yet, but I thought a side-by-side comparison might be useful for those who are wondering how the re-released version compares to the original (produced 1979-2001).



What attracts me to the "Colt" model, is its shape, which in some ways resembles theSelle Italia "Turbo" and similar models of 1980s Italian racing saddles. Those saddles have fairly narrow (but not too narrow) platforms that gently curve in a way that feels very comfortable to me. But while the foam, plastic and padded leather surfaces of the "Turbo" style saddles start to bother me after a while, the suspended leather of the Brooks "Colt" should solve that problem.



Like the '80s Italian racing saddles, the "Colt" has a fully covered, squarish, down-turned nose. It is the only Brooks model where the nose is styled in this manner, and to me the design holds the promise of anatomical comfort. The new and the vintage versions of the "Colt" appear to be identical in form, dimensions and basic construction - differing only in colour, in the shape of the Brooks placket in the back (see previous picture), and, of course, in the amount of wear.



I have two roadbikes for which I need saddles, and I have more or less decided to keep theBerthoudfor one of them. For the other, I would ideally keep the vintage "Colt," and return the new one. One reason I prefer the vintage version is the classic, rich brown colour (the only normal colour the new release comes in, is black - the other options being purple, mustard, turquoise and hot pink). The other reason, is that everyone complains about the "Colt" being difficult to break in, and the vintage version looks like it has most definitely been broken in by the previous owner.



On the other hand, the vintage saddle may in fact be too broken in. The colour variations in the leather make this difficult to capture in pictures, but basically the sit bone indentations from the previous owner are so deep, that a narrow, raised ridge has formed along the center of the saddle. There are several online tutorials that give instructions for re-shaping saddles that exhibit such distortions, and I am considering doing this. The process (as described by Hilary Stone) basically involves getting the saddle wet, then stuffing it with paper and reshaping it as it dries. Curious about the experience of those who have tried it!

Mystery Photo #8

This is the seventh post (and 8th photo) in a series of unidentified photographs from the Charles Wiseman Family Bible. See this post for background information. Click on the "Mystery Photo" label at the bottom of the post to see all of the photographs in this series. As always, you can click on the pictures to enlarge them.

Paper photograph on card stock. 2 3/8 x 4 1/16. Printed on back: Frank A. Place, Photographer, Warsaw, Ind. Also, perhaps, another of those "hidden mother" photos? Looks to me like the background has been retouched.

Okay, even though we all know what can happen when you assume something, an assumption is going to be made that this is a photograph of one of the grandchildren of Charles and Susanna Bray Wiseman. In the previous post I suggested that the baby in that picture was Nathaniel Howard Wiseman, born July 18, 1884. He was the 2nd grandchild of Charles and Susanna. The first was Ethol Walter Scott, born April 7, 1884 in Vevay, Switzerland County, Indiana and the son of Susanna Wiseman and James Scott. I don't think the previous picture was of Ethol because they lived in Vevay, in the southeastern part of Indiana. It's my opinion that the above photograph is of the 3rd grandchild who was Charles Wilson Wiseman, born September 20, 1886 and the son of Amanda Alexander and Samuel Bray Wiseman though it could be Smith Wiseman, born February 27, 1888 and also the son of Sam and Amanda.

The pictures below are from my father and were identified (from left to right) as Ethol Scott, Howard Wiseman, Smith and Charles Wiseman.